Archive for hat

Photograph: Woman with Sword Pin, c. 1895

Posted in 1890s, cabinet cards, women with tags , , , , , , , , , , , on December 27, 2008 by Alinka Lesbianka
Woman with Sword Pin, c. 1895

Photograph: Woman with Sword Pin, c. 1895

Backmark: None

Date:. c. 1895

Subject: Woman Seated

Location: Unknown

Note: This looks like a photograph of a Cabinet Card.

Dress: This woman wears a two-piece dress with large leg-o’-mutton sleeves. The bodice is fitted over a corset with tucks radiating up from CF/waist. The bodice closes at center front with hooks and eyes. The sleeves are typical of the mid 1890s. They may be supported inside with horsehair fabric or pleated buckram lining the sleeve, or a separate set of sleeve cages or pillows.

An enormous eyelet collar fans out from her neck and over the sleeves. The dress is finished with a high standing collar, bows at the shoulder, and trim at the waist made of velvet. A tiny sword pin pierces the front of the collar.

Hair: She wears her hair swept back, with small curls framing her forehead. A small comb holds the sides of her hair back, she probably has a matching one on the other side of her head.

The hat is typical of the 1890s. It rests directly on top of the head and level, and adds height with bows and feathers. Feather use in clothing and accessories reached a peak in the 1880s and 1890s. Entire birds (and other small animals) adorned hats and became fans. The straight, spiky plumes in this woman’s hat may be from one of any number of exotic birds, but are probably egret.

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Tintype: Girl in Hat

Posted in 1860s, neckties, Tintypes, young women with tags , , , , , , on December 16, 2008 by Alinka Lesbianka
Girl in Hat, c. 1865-70

Tintype: Girl in Hat, c. 1865-70

Backmark: None

Date: c. 1865-70

Subject: Young Woman

Location: Unknown

Dress:  This young woman wears a bodice trimmed with ribbon in a large geometric pattern.  It is unclear whether the buttons are functional or decorative.  She wears a ribbon necktie that is either pinned to a high collar or forms the collar itself.  She wears no visible jewelry.

Hat & Hair:  Her hair is pulled straight back from her face and arranged in a vertical oval-shaped roll at the back of her head.  She wears a stylish hat, probably made of straw or woven straw and horsehair.  The low, flat-topped crown sits straight on her head, while the narrow brim comes to a point in front just over her eyebrows.  The hat is trimmed with ribbon and silk or wax flowers on the side.

CDV: London Women

Posted in 1860s, CDV, decorated hairnets, European, Stripes, women with tags , , , , , , on December 4, 2008 by Alinka Lesbianka
London Women, c. 1860-66

CDV: London Women, c. 1860-66

London Women, backmark

CDV: London Women, backmark

Backmark: “J. Ward, Photographer. 78 Easton Road, London”

Date: c. 1860-66

Subject: Older woman and younger woman

Location: London

Older Woman:
This woman wears a hip-length, unfitted paletot over her dress. The jacket is either a shiny, worsted wool, or a wool/silk mix. The jacket is trimmed with two rows of dark ribbon- probably black velvet- and a row of decorative buttons down the front. Curiously, two of the buttons read as white and the rest as black. It is unclear if the white collar is attached to a dress-bodice underneath, or if it is attached to the jacket which is functioning as a bodice. A brooch fastens at center front and neck.

The dress, of which only the skirt is visible, is striped.

Her hair is parted in the center, and she wears an elaborate headdress or cap. These caps were in style in the 1850s, and so it is not surprising that an older woman would wear something a litlle out of style. Unlike headdresses of the early 1806s, which formed a moderate amount of fullness from forehead level to the nape, this 1850s style concentrates all the fullness at ear-level. Wide ribbons falling on the shoulders complete the full-yet-droopy look.

Younger woman: The younger woman wears a plain dress over a wide cage crinoline. No trim details are visible on her dress, except for the dark ribbon belt/sash tied fashionably at the side front of her waist. The black cord hanging from her neck is probably a watch fob. A slim white collar fastened with a brooch completes the dress.

Her long, fair-weather coat (i.e. more decorative than functional), probably made of wool, is trimmed with two rows of ribbon around the neck and down center front. Her sleeves are also trimmed in ribbon or tape, in a vaguely military style that was faddish in the early to mid 1860s. The white handkerchief at her elbow indicates the presence of a coat pocket. She fastens only the first button; the rest of the tiny buttons which go only to rib-cage level lie unused. This button formation is unusual for the period; most coats have large buttons that extend past the waist.

Her hair is center parted and rolled away from her face and bound in back in a low coil. She carries her hat, which appears to be straw and trimmed with ribbon and possibly flowers.

CDV: Girl in Coat

Posted in 1860s, CDV, girls with tags , , , on November 26, 2008 by Alinka Lesbianka
Girl in Coat, c. 1860-66

Girl in Coat, c. 1860-66

[No Backmark]

This girl wears a long coat -almost the length of her dress. The fabric is probably a fine wool with rich shine. The coat’s armscyes are dropped unusually low, and the wide two-piece coat sleeves are bunched up around her arm, so this coat may be a hand-me-down or something meant to last several growing seasons. Although mostly obscured, two pairs of large buttons at the hem hint that the coat fastens with buttons and loops at the top. There are two barely-visible patch pockets; one is obscured by her hat, and the other is just below her left arm.

She wears a long scarf, fastened around her neck with a decorative pin. The ends of the scarf are fringed, and the scarfs appears to have dark edges, though it is unclear from the photograph exactly what makes the edges dark.

Her hat may be made of wool felt, based on the other cold-weather outerwear. I am unaware of other hat materials, so if you have any information please use the comment form below. The hat is trimmed outside with a dark bow tied at back, a ribband around the crown, and what is probably an ostrich plume on the side. The two long ribbons hanging down may be to tie the hat under her chin (I am guessing at this- correct me if you have other ideas).

The girl appears to be wearing a tasseled hairnet (see the light-colored tassel with dark head near her right ear). Her hair is center parted and probably bound in a low coil on the nape of her neck.

She wears a wide hoop, for her size, and her skirt hangs at least six inches off the ground. This silhouette is typical of adolescent girls of the period.

CDV: Bathers

Posted in 1860s, CDV, men, Sportswear, women with tags , , , , , , on November 25, 2008 by Alinka Lesbianka
Two men and two women on beach, c. 1860-70.

Two men and two women on beach, c. 1860-70.

O.H. Willard's Galleries. 1206 Chestnut Street, N?......PHILA.

O.H. Willard

Backmark: None

Date: 1860-70

Subject: Two men and two women on the beach

Location: Unknown

Note: This CDV was purchased in New York City.  Provenance unknown.A rare example of on-site photography. There is a slight possibility that this is a staged, indoor beach setting, but because it lacks the typical trappings of early beachwear photographs (e.g. obviously fake backdrops, props of anchors and other boating gear) and because it looks like there is sand in the foreground, I believe that this is one of the earliest known photographs taken of people on the beach

Man on the Left: Appears to be wearing a loose wool shirt with center front placket extended to just above waist level. The placket closes with 4 visible buttons. A fifth button on PR neck indicates a possible placket extension. Shirt has collar and very full sleeves that bunch around the wristband. Shirt is tucked into trousers and bloused. Trousers of wool, probably matching shirt, with front opening with visible buttons. Trousers are full, gathered into ankle with a band and ending with a short frill over the foot. Straw hat with chin strap. There is a dark spot on the front crown, significance unknown.

Woman, Second from Left: Short dress, probably wool. Flat collar about 2″ wide with dark trim at edge. Bodice bloused slightly into belt at natural waistline. Belt of self fabric trimmed at top and bottom with same trim as collar. Full sleeves ending at wrist, banded with contrast trim, with short ruffle over hands. Skirt is pleated (possibly cut all in one with bodice, basted at waist into pleats); knee-length, trimmed with two horizontal stripes of same trim as elsewhere. Pantaloons are full, probably modeled on young children’s drawers, with openings at either side, and buttons fastening at the waist. Pantaloons are full, gathered at ankle with two stripes of coordinating trim, with a ruffle over the foot about 3″ long. She wears her hair bound, and a straw hat, possibly pulled down at sides to tie under the hair. May also be a bonnet in the typical style, with bavolet and rosette at top.

Man, Third from left: Hip-length shirt, probably of wool. Opens all the way down center front, with a contrasting (dark) panel of fabric and twelve contrasting (light) buttons. Dark material is bound with contrasting braid along all edges, including center fronts and collar. Center front at waist slightly rounded. Cuff not visible. Shirt is untucked. Trousers of fabric probably same as the shirt. Moderately full, banded at ankle with contrasting (dark) fabric or tape, with contrast (dark) placket and light button at inside ankle. No ruffle is visible. Straw hat with chin ties, loosely knotted. His has is tipped slightly back, showing just enough of the crown to reveal a dark spot in the same shape and size as the other man has.

Woman, far right: Dress, probably of wool. Buttons up front with widely-spaced, contrast color (dark) buttons (probably four total). Neckline not discernible. Sleeves pleated at armscye and pleated into contrasting band at wrist, with no discernible ruffle. Thin belt of contrasting fabric. Skirt pleated; ends midway between knee and ankle. Bottom of skirt decorated with wide (5-7″) band of contrasting fabric. Trousers end at ankle, gathered into loose bands of light-coloured material, with similar band of contrasting fabric falling over tops of the feet, Hair is center parted and bound up, and she wears a bonnet or hat pulled down at sides to form a coat-scuttle shape.